StoryPole/Stairs

Cut a stringer that lands flush

Measure the total rise once. Get the riser count, the exact unit rise in sixteenths, your framing square settings, and a throat check before you cut into a good 2×12.


Stringer profile
Side view of the cut stringer with dimensions
Code
The stair
14auto

Total rise is finished floor to finished floor — include the decking or tile you have not laid yet.

Stock & finish

Floor assembly is joist depth plus subfloor and ceiling — it only affects the headroom opening.

Cut card
unit rise, each riser
Framing square — tongue
Framing square — blade

Laying it out

  1. Set the framing square to the tongue and blade numbers above using stair gauges, then step off the sawtooth along the crown edge of the 2×12.
  2. Step off the full riser count. The last mark should land at the top of the board — if it drifts, your gauges moved.
  3. Cut the notches with a circular saw, stopping short of the inside corner, and finish every corner with a handsaw. Overcutting the corner is what cracks stringers under load.
  4. Take the bottom cut adjustment off the bottom of the stringer, not the top.
  5. Use the first stringer as the template for the rest. Never lay out each one separately.

The bottom cut, and why the first step is wrong

A stringer stepped off straight from the square puts the notches at equal spacing, but the finished treads sit on top of those notches. Everywhere in the middle of the flight that cancels out. At the bottom it does not, because the stringer sits on the slab and there is no tread underneath. The first step ends up one tread thickness taller than the rest.

The fix is to cut the bottom of the stringer down by the tread thickness. At the top the same logic runs the other way — the last riser is short by one tread thickness unless the upper floor is already finished when you measured, which is why total rise is always finished to finished.

Throat depth

The throat is what is left of the board measured square from the inside corner of a notch to the bottom edge. It is the actual structural section of the stringer, and it is the reason cut stringers are 2×12 and not 2×10.

StockThroat at 7½ / 10
2×10 — 9¼″3¼″too thin
2×12 — 11¼″5¼″standard
2×14 — 13¼″7¼″long spans

Five inches is the working minimum most inspectors and framing references expect. Deeper runs eat throat faster than taller risers do, so a 12″ tread on a 2×12 gets tight.

Code limits

IRCIBC
Max riser7¾″7″
Min tread10″11″
Min headroom6′-8″6′-8″
Min width36″44″
Riser variation⅜″⅜″

The ⅜″ uniformity rule is the one that fails inspections. It is measured between the tallest and shortest riser in a single flight, and a mis-cut bottom step blows it on its own.

Questions

Why is there one more riser than tread?

Because the upper floor is the last tread. You step off onto finished floor rather than onto something you cut.

What is a comfortable rise and run?

Two risers plus one tread should land between 24″ and 25″. A 7½″ rise with a 10″ run hits 25″ exactly, which is why it shows up in every framing book.

Can I use a 2×10 if I bolt on a support?

A solid-stock stringer with a cleat or a housed stringer changes the analysis completely, and at that point you are outside rule-of-thumb territory. Ask an engineer rather than guessing at it.

Layout tool, not structural design. This works out geometry and material quantities. It does not size the stringer for span or load, verify connections at the header, or replace an inspection. Code figures follow the model IRC and IBC — your jurisdiction may amend them. Verify locally before you cut.