Story Pole Tools/HVAC

The rule of thumb is why it short-cycles

Square feet times a number is how equipment gets sized, and it is why so much of it is two to three times too big. This works the envelope instead, and shows you both figures.


Drawing
Drawing
The building

Footprint and height, not total floor area — the envelope is what loses heat, and two storeys lose less per square foot than one.

Envelope

R-value is resistance — higher is better. These are assembly values, close enough for a comparison but not a Manual J.

Climate & tightness

Load ticket
BTU/hr heating Enter dimensions to start

Heating

    Cooling

      Where it goes

        Why the rule of thumb is wrong now

        The familiar figures — 25 to 50 BTU per square foot depending on climate — were reasonable when they were coined. They describe housing with R-11 walls, single-pane windows and an air change every hour or two whether you wanted it or not.

        Current construction is a different building. R-19 or better in the walls, R-38 in the ceiling, low-E glass, and air sealing that a 1970s house never had. The load per square foot has fallen by more than half, and the rule of thumb has not moved.

        So a well-built 2,000 sq ft house that actually needs around 27,000 BTU/hr gets a system sized for 80,000. Both numbers are shown above; the gap is the point of this page.

        What oversizing actually does

        An oversized furnace satisfies the thermostat fast and shuts off. That wastes fuel through repeated startup, wears the equipment, and gives uneven temperatures because the air never circulates long enough to mix.

        Oversized air conditioning is worse, and the reason is moisture. A coil only removes humidity while it runs — moisture condenses on it over time. A short cycle pulls the temperature down quickly and stops before meaningful dehumidification has happened, so the house ends up cold and clammy, which people then respond to by lowering the thermostat further.

        That is the signature of an oversized cooling system, and no amount of thermostat adjustment fixes it.

        Where the load actually goes

        The breakdown above is worth reading. In a poorly insulated house, walls and ceiling dominate. Insulate them properly and the picture inverts — windows and air leakage become the largest terms, because glass is a poor insulator even when it is good glass, and air you have heated leaving the building takes its heat with it.

        That is why air sealing usually returns more than adding another layer of attic insulation to a house that already has some.

        The arithmetic

        Conduction through each surface is Q = A ÷ R × ΔT. Infiltration is Q = 1.08 × CFM × ΔT, where 1.08 comes from the density and specific heat of air. Cooling adds solar gain through glazing and internal gains from people and appliances, and carries a latent component for moisture that varies enormously by climate.

        Tons are simply BTU/hr ÷ 12,000 — a figure that comes from the heat absorbed by a ton of ice melting over a day.

        Questions

        Can I use this to buy a system?

        No. Use it to understand what drives the number, then have a Manual J done. If a contractor sizes from floor area alone, that is a reason to get another quote.

        Why is my cooling load smaller than heating?

        Because the temperature difference usually is. A 60°F winter difference against a 20°F summer one is three times the driving force, offset somewhat by solar and internal gains in summer.

        Does a two storey house need less?

        Per square foot, yes — the same floor area has much less roof and slab exposed. The calculator accounts for that.

        This is not a Manual J and must not be used to buy equipment. A real load calculation accounts for orientation, shading, duct losses, zoning, internal gains in detail and local design conditions. This is a simplified envelope model intended to show how much the answer depends on the building rather than the floor area. Have a Manual J done before selecting equipment — many contractors will do one, and it is the difference between a system that dehumidifies and one that does not.